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A visit to Aguasabon Falls and Gorge just west of the small North Shore community of Terrace Bay, Ontario, is a must! For many, a waterfall is a feast for the senses: hearing the roar of the falls, watching the water tumbling over ancient high cliffs, pointing out the rainbow colours as sunlight passes through mist droplets, feeling the spray against your face. Aguasabon Falls is particularly impressive, cascading 30 m (100 feet)in a narrow gorge, past a rock face that’s billions of years old. Fiercer in the spring, gentler in the summer and fall and intriguingly icy in the winter, it’s an awe-inspiring sight that happens to be easy to access from the Trans-Canada Highway and is also part of the Lake Superior Circle Tour route. As well, Augasabon Falls is linked to incredible feats of engineering to harness the power of the water and contribute to founding of the town of Terrace Bay. Read on to discover more about the fascinating history of Aguasabon Falls and Gorge.

Related Article: A History of Terrace Bay

Going Way Back

The geology of Augasabon Falls and Gorge dates back to 2.5 billion years ago and the Archean age. The exposed rock you see at the falls is igneous rock called granodiorite, made up of mainly feldspar and quartz. Brittle fractures called joints cross this granodiorite rock, and over millions of years, as the earth shifted, these joints grew larger. During the last ice age, about 10,000 years ago, this landscape was further shaped by glaciers—as the glaciers melted, the heavy pressure of the ice on the earth’s crust began to ease (called “uplift”), leading to even wider joints. The combination of uplift and longtime erosion helped create the landscape you see today.  Joints form the vertical walls of the gorge as well as parallel to the river above the falls, causing the pronounced right-angle bend in the river. Be sure to check out the interpretative panels at the lookout for more details about the geology of the area.

Longtime First Nation Residents

Lake Superior is known as gichigaaming (the big lake) to the Anishinaabeg peoples who live on its shores. Archeological evidence shows that Indigenous peoples have lived and travelled on the lake’s shoreline and islands for about 9,500 years, paying close attention to the lands, waters, weather and seasons. As Parks Canada notes, “Their relationship to, and stewardship of, the land is reflected in ceremony, songs, craft and language. As you travel along the highway corridor, you will see place names that are rooted in the Ojibwe language. Examples include: Shuniah, Nipigon, Opwaaganasiniing, Mazukama Falls, Kama Cliffs, Wabasta Lake, Pawgwasheeng, and Aguasabon Falls.”

Remarkable Engineering

The Augasabon River looked very different a hundred years ago. In 1939, however, the quiet Augasabon stream became a rushing river, when the north end of Long Lake was dammed by the Hydro-Electric Power Commission of Ontario (the predecessor of Ontario Power Generation or OPG). Now, water flows southward into Lake Superior, rather than northward to James Bay via the Kenogami River. This actually raised the water levels of Lake Superior and the other Great Lakes! Then, in 1945, power commission gave the green light to the construction of a 40,000 kilowatt (53,000 horsepower) generating station. The hydroelectric power derived from the Augasabon Generating Station meant that the growing industrial demands of the area—mainly the new mill of the Long Lac Pulp and Paper Company, later the Kimberly-Clark Pulp and Paper Company—could be met. Power was also supplied to the Thunder Bay area via a 110,000-volt steel transmission line.

Construction of the generating project began in spring 1946. A massive dam contained the waters of the Augasabon River, vastly enlarging a small lake called Blue Jay that was renamed Hays Lake, after Charles L. Hays, the general superintendent of the project. The dam, about 3 km (2 miles) north of the outlet to Lake Superior, is about 427 m (1,400 feet long) and 37 m (120 feet) high, containing three sluiceways, each 4 m (14 feet wide). The dam, the generating station and the intake structure are all at some distance from each other, presenting significant engineering challenges, not the least of which was excavating a 1,066-m (3,500-foot) tunnel through solid rock in order to transport water from the intake structure on Hays Lake to the powerhouse on Lake Superior. The entire project saw an average of 700 people working on it per day (with peak employment reaching 2,000 at times) for a total of 5,000,000 hours of labour. It officially opened in October 1948.

 

A New Town by the River

The new town of Terrace Bay also came into being (formerly the tiny railway settlement was known as Black Siding) as a site for the mill’s workforce and their families. An article in the July 8, 1948 Terrace Bay News reported that “History was made this morning at Terrace Bay when two steel gates in the newly constructed Hydro Dam across the Aguasabon River were lowered into position,” followed by comments by  a mill representative that “he was thrilled beyond words” and “noted that with the closing of the gates in the dam a new era was beginning in this area where an entire new community was being built around a river.” By 1950, the population of Terrace Bay had settled out at about 2,000 residents, rising higher in the 1970s with a mill expansion and boom times, and then dropping to about 1,500 in 2021. While the mill operations have declined over the years, the Augasabon Generating Station continues to be one of OPG’s 11 hydroelectric generating stations in Ontario. It can power approximately 45,000 homes at peak capacity.

 

 

Aguasabon Falls and Gorge Today

Today, visitors and residents alike visit Aguasabon Falls and Gorge in all seasons, to contemplate the majesty of the rock and water. You can relax at the picnic tables, see the falls from a lookout and stroll the wheelchair accessible boardwalk (yes, there’s parking, including for RVs). Before or after your visit, see Terrace Bay itself to discover its amenities, including shopping, restaurants and a craft brewery, and the sandy shores of Terrace Bay Beach . To get a closer look at the Augasabon River, try the 3.25 km (2 mile) round-trip Terrace Bay Beach hike south from the falls and along the river to reach its end point at Terrace Bay Beach, or head northeast from the falls along the river and into the community of Terrace Bay, a round trip of 3.75 km (2.3 mile), on the Danny’s Cove Trail.

 

A History of Aguasabon Falls and Gorge Photos

Images courtesy of Catherine Swimming, Collection of Terrace Bay Public Library.

The rugged Northern Ontario forest is the reason for the existence of Terrace Bay, named after the terraces left behind when glaciers receded about 20,000 years ago. This is a history of Terrace Bay.

Terrace Bay began its life as an undeveloped area catering to the needs of the forestry industry. The decision to develop the town was made in the early 1940’s by the Longlac Pulp and Paper Company which changed its name to Kimberly Clark Pulp and Paper Company in 1958.

Related Article: A History of Aguasabon Falls and Gorge

By the end of 1948, Terrace Bay consisted of about 230 houses serviced with sewer, water and electricity but surrounded only by bush. The roads were rough, and the highway was still not completed through the town. The residents had to travel for medical attention, to attend church, to pick up and send mail and do their banking.

Despite these hardships, the newly arrived workers and their families must have been pinching themselves to make sure they weren’t dreaming when they found themselves in such stunningly scenic surroundings. Built attractions such as the community’s iconic lighthouse, its golf course, hiking trails and beach development were years away in the future but, in the meantime, they could feast their eyes on spectacular Lake Superior views, the majestic Aquasabon Falls and Gorge and the beauty of the forest and cliffs around them.

In 1951, the Lakeview subdivision was started, with sewer, water and electrical services provided for over 100 houses. Other additions to the community were two new churches, a 22-bed hospital, post office, bank, liquor store, theatre, clothing store and railway station. Construction of the Memorial Recreation Centre was completed in July 1953 with the building consisting of an arena, curling club, restaurant, bowling alley, library, offices, meeting rooms and public washrooms.

In 1955, the Aquasabon Golf Club was built, adding to the list of amenities that both locals and visitors could enjoy.

The town’s mill has had a checkered history, having gone through cycles of shutting down, changing ownership, then shutting down again. In 1972, the Kimberly Clark Pulp and Paper Company Ltd. and Kimberly Clark of Canada Ltd. amalgamated. From 1972 to 1977 the population of Terrace Bay increased from 1,755 to 2,299, directly attributed to Kimberly Clark’s expansion program. At that time, the mill was the lifeblood of the region.

Around the same time, a group of young locals set out to build the Casque Isles Trail, a recreational nature trail that this group of volunteers cut through thick boreal forests, weaving 53 k along the North Shore of Lake Superior. Eventually deemed to be one of the top ten hiking trails in Ontario by Explore Magazine, Casque Isles was a key step in establishing the community and the region as a Mecca for outdoor enthusiasts and it is still meticulously maintained by dedicated volunteers.

In 2005 Kimberly-Clark sold the mill to Neenah Paper Inc, who then sold the mill to Buchanan Forestry Products in 2006. It was shut down in 2009 when it ran into financial hard times but after a reorganization, it reopened in October 2010 amidst strong pulp markets. Soon after, though, the mill ran into financial trouble again and had to declare bankruptcy and look for a buyer. In July 2012, the Aditya Birla Group agreed to purchase the mill.

This latest period of uncertainty spurred the town’s leaders to look for ways of diversifying the economy, and not surprisingly, they saw the natural beauty of the region as the foundation for moving forward. The municipality carried out a plan for growth in 2010/2011 including a downtown revitalization initiative, a cultural centre project, and a rebranding of the township based on Lake Superior and the Terrace Bay Lighthouse attraction that had just been built in 2011.

Terrace Bay’s status as a tourism destination got another boost on September 1, 2015, when the federal government announced the establishment of the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area. The largest freshwater marine protected area in the world, it extends across the top of Lake Superior from Thunder Bay to just east of Terrace Bay, and south to the Canada-United States border.

The township was quick to act on this significant development. The Township of Terrace Bay Waterfront Masterplan was commissioned in 2016 and completed in 2017, signaling the beginning of a major waterfront enhancement project that would complement the town’s beautiful sandy beach and would see over $3 million invested. Features of the Terrace Bay waterfront include a pavilion with a Parks Canada store and visitor centre, a 300-metre illuminated boardwalk, kayak and canoe launches and Parks Canada red chairs.

Also fairly new in town is the Slate Islands Brewing Company. When the local post office vacated a 5,000 square foot office space, Brian Doig imagined a small craft brewery taking over the location. His dream is now a reality. Next door to the brewery is the Lighthouse Gallery, a contemporary venue for local artisans to showcase and sell their arts and crafts.

Terrace Bay really knows how to celebrate. Beginning in February with the winter carnival, Terrace Bay Winterfest, the fun continues in the summer with Canada Day celebrations, the Terrace Bay Beach Festival, the Terrace Bay Lighthouse Festival and Dragfest, the immensely popular automobile drag race held at the Terrace Bay Airport and celebrating its 25^th Anniversary in August, 2024. Dragfest attracts some 5,000 spectators over the three days of the event. In September, as the leaves are starting to turn, the township comes together at the Terrace Bay Simcoe Plaza to celebrate the region’s creativity with the Fall Street Market featuring unique vendors, community groups, artists, and artisans from across the region.

 

Uncertainty about the mill’s future still lingers with operations having been put on hold in early 2024 but Terrace has forged ahead, establishing itself as a place for outdoor adventures, arts and culture, special events and Northern hospitality. With the groundbreaking ceremony recently held for the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area Visitor Experience Centre in nearby Nipigon, and the visiting of cruise ships, it will be exciting to see what the future holds for Terrace Bay and the Superior Country Region.

Terrace Bay is a mesmerizing town tucked away on the stunning North shore of Lake Superior. This quaint community is a veritable paradise that will steal your heart from the moment you arrive. What makes Terrace Bay the perfect spot for a family weekend? Let me tell you…

Picture this: rugged shoreline, crystal clear waters that stretch as far as the eye can see, dense forests that teem with wildlife and beckon you to lose yourself in adventure. The natural beauty of Terrace Bay is nothing short of awe-inspiring, whether you are seeking chill vibes for a weekend of beaches and relaxation, a thrilling new sport like freshwater surfing, or hiking some of the most beautiful back country trails in Ontario, this place offers a symphony of sights and sounds that will leave you breathless at every turn.

Terrace Bay is one of my favourite destinations for a family weekend getaway.  We have so many memories of building sandcastles on the beach, embarking on exhilarating hikes through the wilderness and bonding over shared experiences that have become cherished memories. Terrace Bay offers a magical blend of relaxation, adventure, and pure joy that’s perfect for families looking to escape the daily grind and to reconnect.  Let me tell you about one of my favourite itineraries for a family weekend in Terrace Bay!

Our weekend getaway in this amazing town almost always starts with a visit to the famous Aguasabon Falls & Gorge.  We are always spellbound by the sheer magnificence of this incredible attraction.  In the summer it is a quick drive right off the highway and it is the perfect way to start your weekend. After you make your way down a charming blue boardwalk, you reach an incredible lookout that will leave you breathless. A huge torrent of water thunders over rugged cliffs, sending misty plumes into the air and sends the powerful river through the gorge all the way to Lake Superior. It is the perfect spot for nature photographers, adventurers looking for an accessible, wondrous viewpoint or a nature lover looking for solace and inspiration.

After you take in the majesty of this amazing waterfall, you can make your way back down the board walk to the parking area and opt to hike down to Terrace Bay Beach. The Casque Isles has a trail entry spot here.  Follow the signs marked for the Lyda Bay section, and make sure you take the trail leading to Terrace Bay Beach, unless you want to hike further on the Casque Isles Trail. It is about a 3.5 km round trip to the beach and back.

Terrace Bay Beach is a truly hidden oasis on the North shore. It is a slice of paradise at the intersection of natural splendor and tranquility. I love spending time here, sinking my toes into the powdery pinkish white sand and scouring the shoreline for beach treasures.  A quick stop here is never enough. So, the short visit for an evening hike is just to wet your taste buds for a bigger beach day.

Once back at the parking area, make your way to Drifters Motel and Restaurant for an incredible meal and a clean, welcoming place to rest and recharge.  I must recommend the Signature Salad and Meaty MJ pizza for dinner it is SO yummy!  If you are looking for takeout, the Drifters store front always has an assortment of sandwiches, wraps and pastries to grab a quick bite. They also have a small selection of delicious sushi, which is my favourite go-to for a fast snack.

After dinner we make a point to walk over to the iconic Terrace Bay Lighthouse! A 50-foot replica of the lighthouse from the Slate Islands. It is a fantastic photo op and the most incredible view at sunset if you make your way up the steps to the observation deck.

After taking in the sights, you can explore Simcoe Plaza and stop in at the Slate Island Brewing Company, a fantastic place for a refreshing beverage and to connect with locals to get an insider scoop on other amazing things to see and do.

We always make sure to get up bright and early the next day, because there are so many incredible things to do! We make a quick stop a Costas Food Market to grab supplies for a delicious picnic and supplies for camping and hit the shoreline for a full day of exploring and beaches.

If you are interested in a relaxing day by the lake, you can head down to Terrace Bay Beach and spend the entire day lounging, snacking, and exploring. You can bring a paddle board, kayak, or canoe to go for a paddle, or a volleyball, or some badminton racquets to play beach games.  Your family will have a full day of endless entertainment! If you are interested in a more adventurous beach experience, you can do what we love, and have a trifecta beach day! We often set off from Terrace Bay Beach and hike along Casque Isles trail to the beach at Danny’s Cove and then further to Lyda Bay Beach. Three amazing beaches in one day!

Lyda Bay is a back country beach only accessible by hiking in or by boat. It is an incredible panorama of soft white sand and secluded charm. It truly is pristine.  The cold, clear water of Lake Superior is incredibly inviting at this spot, with shallow pools and a sandy bottom, it is the perfect spot for a swim.  It is also an amazing spot to camp out and stay the night.  It is usually a quiet spot and the perfect opportunity to camp on a beach, where you are likely to have it all to yourself!

After setting up tents and having a fire, we lounge on the beach for sunset and then stargaze in quiet solitude. After a cozy night in the wilderness, we wake up early, make coffee in the early morning sunshine, pack up our things and hike back to Terrace Bay Beach.

If camping in the backcountry isn’t your style, you can always decide to hike out after a day enjoying sun and sand and stay at one of the other great accommodations in town.

There are always endless options for the last day of our weekend getaway.  Sometimes we just want to walk down Simcoe Plaza and shop at the local stores, or head back to Drifters for nachos and a few cold beverages.  If the weather is right, you can check out the local surf scene.  When the waves are out, you will almost always find locals out at Pumphouse Beach.

If you are like me and want to cram every ounce of awesome into a weekend, there is no better view in Northwestern Ontario’s Superior Country than the top of Mt. Gwynne on the Casque Isles Trail.  Some of my favourite weekend adventures with my son and our dogs have been on this hike.  It’s a short drive from Terrace Bay to the Worthington Beach access road. From there you can hike down to Worthington and then up to the summit of Mount Gwynne.  If you park near the highway, it’s a 14 km (ish) round trip, but absolutely worth every step.  The 360-degree view from the summit of Mount Gwynne is nothing short of breathtaking.  As you ascend the rocky peak of this majestic lookout, each step is a testament to nature’s grandeur, rewarding your efforts with an unparalleled panorama.  You can see Terrace Bay, Schreiber and Rossport from this amazing spot.  In late summer there are blankets of blueberries up there and it’s the most incredible place for a picnic. It’s not just the natural beauty that makes this spot so incredible, but also the profound sense of connection and perspective that it offers.  A beautiful place to create memories with the people you love most. There really is no better way to end a weekend adventure than with a massive send off like this.

So, if you are ready to fall head over heels in love with this community, pack your bags, grab your loved ones and dive headfirst into the captivating world of Terrace Bay. Your next extraordinary adventure is just around the corner, and trust me, you won’t want to miss a family weekend in Terrace Bay!